A member of the Chajil Ch’upup fishing association plants the first seed of the season in San Juan La Laguna (Photo by Sarah Calhoun).

National Geographic Young Explorer Grantee Sarah Calhoun is learning about the lives of local fishermen, hoping to develop a system to monitor the fishery of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala and help improve detection of potential toxins produced by cyanobacterial blooms. She hopes to help restore the lake to its former health and preserve traditional ecological knowledge through community engagement and partnership with students at la Universidad del Valle.

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Almost three months ago during my first day out on the lake with the Panajachel fishermen, I first heard of the plant ‘tul’, scientifically known as Scirpus californicus.  Even then, when my Spanish was in serious need of a tune up, I understood that tul had become the central topic of conversation, not realizing at first the cultural and ecological importance of this native plant.

In mid-March I came into contact with Bernardino, the current president of the fishing association in San Juan La Laguna.  In 2005, after hurricane Stan destroyed the shoreline reed beds, their association was legally created and they began to call themselves ‘Chajil Ch’upup’, translated from local dialect Tz’utujil, meaning ‘guardian of the tul’.

Each member of the Chajil Ch’upup fishing association assists in planting the tul in April and May (Photo by Sarah Calhoun).

A Chajil Ch’upup fishermen fastens the roots of the tul around a heavy rock to help stabilize the reed for planting (Photo by Sarah Calhoun).

Why tul (Scirpus californicus)?

• Primary habitat for various aquatic species (i.e. fish, snails, crabs, and waterfowl)
• Oxygenates the water
• Creates a natural barrier to soil erosion
• Absorbs nutrients that otherwise lead to lake eutrophication
• Functions as a natural filter in the aquifer against cyanobacteria
• Used for the production of cultural handicrafts as a source of income

The Chajil Ch’upup fishing association differs from the others around the lake as they also offer an eco-tourism component to aid in Lake Atitlan conservation.  While they offer this service to bring awareness and funds to plant tul, it is an activity that is done with or without the tourists.  After two large tropical storm events (Stan 2005 and Agatha 2010) struck the area, lake water began to rise at an unprecedented rate and shoreline habitat was destroyed.  In San Juan La Laguna they continue to plant tul three times a year during the months of April and May to help repair the aquatic ecosystem, before the start of the rainy season.  I was fortunate to have met with Bernardino in San Juan only weeks before the first planting event.

The traditional cayucos are ready to head out onto the lake with the collected tul seeds.  After two tropical storms hit Lake Atitlan in 2005 and 2010 there is hardly any tul left on the shorelines (Photo by Sarah Calhoun).

On April 13^th we met at the dock in San Juan La Laguna just after sunrise to collect and prepare materials for the planting and set off in the traditional wooden kayaks to plant the first seeds of the season.  The fishermen wait patiently to plant all the collected reeds until the first seed has been firmly planted and observed, a cultural ceremony of sorts.  Afterwards each fisherman plants their share of tul in hopes that the rainy season will bring growth and productivity to the ecosystem to improve the quality of life of the Atitlan fishermen and their families.

At the end of a long morning the Chajil Ch’upup fishermen of San Juan La Laguna gather for one last photo (Photo by Sarah Calhoun).

NEXT: Read More Posts From Atitlan 2013

There are 24 fishermen in the town of Santa Cruz La Laguna. I was pleased that five of these men took time out of their busy lives to share their thoughts about the state of the Atitlan fishery. (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)

National Geographic Young Explorer Grantee Sarah Calhoun is learning about the lives of local fishermen, hoping to develop a system to monitor the fishery of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala and help improve detection of potential toxins produced by cyanobacterial blooms. She hopes to help restore the lake to its former health and preserve traditional ecological knowledge through community engagement and partnership with students at la Universidad del Valle.

Just like I’ve needed to switch quickly from sweaters and jeans to shorts and flip-flops with the erratic changes in weather here, I’ve needed to be nimble with my research techniques as well.  My time spent in Guatemala has reminded me that many people do not adhere to the kind of strict schedule I have accustomed myself to in the US.  Contrary to my original, neatly outlined, itinerary, I volunteer my time when asked (sometimes with only an hour’s notice), conduct my interviews when and how the fishermen see fit (at times staying in another village a few days longer than originally planned), and scuba dive when the conditions are just right.  I am trying hard to utilize both quantitative and qualitative methods in my surveys, but time in the field has shown the “structured” interviews to function more like conversation starters.

At times frustrating, I find this uncustomary approach to research to be rather exhilarating and part of the reason I have chosen to explore the route of social science: it is messy, informal at times, loaded with new insights, incredibly intriguing, and absolutely necessary to integrate with the natural sciences.

A sign posted at the Santa Cruz La Laguna dock reminds people to take care of their environment, reading “the lake needs you.” (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)

The villages contrast each other more than I had imagined.  Each town has its own association, fishing territory, language, and management ideas.  To provide you with a few examples: the fishermen in Panajachel, primarily harpoon fishermen, believe the greatest issue to the lake’s fishery lack of clarity due to continued sewage inputs.  The fish escape in the muck before the men have a chance to capture them.  After diving to conduct fish surveys with the local divemasters at Ati Divers, I can see their point; at times I was only able to see one meter ahead of me.  This town believes the only way to save the lake is to install bio-digesters in every home.

The Santa Cruz fishermen on the other hand, primarily gill-net fishermen, believe the largest problem is lack of fish and would like to create a stocking program, but lack the resources to do so.  The fishermen of San Pedro also state the biggest problem is lack of fish, but are confident this problem could be solved by prohibiting all fishing efforts during the months of greatest reproduction, May-July.  However, they also lack the resources to be able to survive without fishing for that amount of time.

The fishing association in Panajachel organizes a clean-up event twice a month to remove trash from the lake.  Although many people gather around the shoreline to witness the event no one volunteers to lend a hand. (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)

As I’ve traveled around the lake, talked with various organizations and listened to what the fishermen have to say, I’ve had a series of ups and downs.  At times I feel optimistic and energized at the possibility of community-based management or even co-management depending on the level of feasible government participation.  Other times I feel overwhelmed at the work that needs to be done and cynical about the lack of unity around the lake.

Pablo, the eldest of the Panajachel fishermen, retrieves the trash from other fishermen snorkeling and diving beneath the surface. (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)

During these bouts of pessimism I turn my head to the books and research similar case-studies (a great start on my literature review!), successful sustainable fisheries, and other projects taking place around the lake.  Even the fishermen are taking time out of their busy lives to dive for trash and try to show someone they care about their lake, their livelihood.

Fishermen have the greatest incentives to manage the fishery in a sustainable way and should be included in resource management discussions and recognized for their organization.  Change takes time, but with a little more participation from the local communities, better communication strategies,  and institutional support, the integration of social and ecological sustainability can be achieved.

NEXT: Read More Posts From Atitlan 2013

Due to high winds on the lake that tend to pick up around noon (known to the locals as chocomil) early morning sampling on the boat is necessary (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)

National Geographic Young Explorer Grantee Sarah Calhoun is learning about the lives of local fishermen, hoping to develop a system to monitor the fishery of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala and help improve detection of potential toxins produced by cyanobacterial blooms. She hopes to help restore the lake to its former health and preserve traditional ecological knowledge through community engagement and partnership with students at la Universidad del Valle.

Guatemalan students, Hugo Villavicencio and Estuardo Bocel, use a van dorn water sampler to collect water from different depths in the water column for later analysis for nutrients and physical properties (photo by Sarah Calhoun)

United for Atitlan

In my prior introduction to this project, I mentioned a group of international and local scientists that came together in April 2010 to conduct a snapshot assessment of the lake.  These aforementioned scientists have continued to collaborate since then, each year bringing in new students and volunteers with the intention of training a future generation of young Guatemalan scientists to carry out monitoring of the lake and communication of results to the local people.  This is the same group of people that helped me develop my current research proposal and continue to support and advise my work here at Lake Atitlan.  During the past two weeks, I spent time in the field with this hardworking crew and I’d like to give them some well-deserved credit and devote this blog to United for Lake Atitlan.

Funded by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), the United for Lake Atitlan project brings together scientists and students from: University of Nevada- Reno (UNR), Universidad del Valle de Guatemala (UVG), Universidad Rafael Landivar (URL), University of California- Davis (UCD), and Desert Research Institute (DRI).  Viable lake management strategies must come from a thorough analysis of the watershed, water quality tests that determine lake health, and an updated database of existing river and lake data that is available to all organizations and scientists working to conserve Lake Atitlan.  These are some of the goals and intentions of United for Lake Atitlan.

My personal interest in United for Atitlan stems from the two and a half years I spent working for Dr. Sudeep Chandra in the Aquatic Ecosystems Analysis Laboratory at UNR, where I developed my proposal for the Young Explorers Grant.  It has been an amazing couple of weeks back in the field with new and old acquaintances.  I have continued to learn about the challenges of using western knowledge and technology in a less developed part of the world.  While the sampling techniques and water quality measurements are the same, new approaches and compromises must be made when sampling in a foreign country.  Most sampling instruments have been brought from the United States so it is crucial to be careful and diligent with everything you have to work with when supplies are scarce and working stations are limited.  Although there is now a limnology lab located at UVG, Atitlan Centro de Estudios, it is difficult and time consuming to transfer samples up the mountain everyday and therefore hotel rooms are turned into mini laboratories.

Alecia Brantley, graduate student at University of Nevada-Reno, uses the hotel patio ‘laboratory’ to clean and prep soil cores for nutrient sampling (photo by Sarah Calhoun)

The dynamic energy of the group was apparent during our early morning sampling trips out on the boat, long walks up the currently calm Rio Quiscab, a visit to the sewage treatment plant, long afternoons of filtering collected water samples for nutrient analysis, and of course the interminable data that takes place long after the sun has set.  Each night ended with a walk down calle Santander, in hopes of finding a quiet restaurant where we could sustain our active minds and continue the intellectual conversations on how to work together, locally and internationally, so that each person contributes towards the recovery of the lake to historical conditions.

I am reminded once again why I have fallen in love with natural and social sciences and the changing environment around us.  I anticipate my upcoming interviews with the fishermen and look forward to including their knowledge and expertise of the changing lake and how they may become more involved in lake management.  Humans are just as dynamic as the environment we live in and we must continue to collaborate and communicate our advancing knowledge of the natural world to ensure the successful conservation of our resources, in this case, the inspirational Lake Atitlan.

Dr. Eliska Rejmankova, from UC Davis, collects sewage from the Santa Catarina treatment plant for nutrient analysis (photo by Sarah Calhoun)

Guatemalan student, Hugo Villavicencio, and Dr. Rene Henery collect data for monitoring of the Rio Quiscab, the largest inflow to Lake Atitlan (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)

This photo was taken about 1km up the Rio Quiscab from the Atitlan shoreline; you can see from the raised rock bed and fallen tree the type of damage past storm events have caused to the immediate area. Also raising river waters and force, which flushes nutrients into Lake Atitlan (photo by Sarah Calhoun)

Dr. Margaret Dix, director of UVG Atitlan Studies, collects and filters lake water for algae zooplankton composition (photo by Sarah Calhoun)

NEXT: A First Look at the Daily Life of an Atitlan Fisherman

After weaving through the bustling streets of Guatemala City and arriving in the highlands of Lake Atitlan, I have finally landed in the majestic town of Panajachel. At first glance, it appears the same as any Central American city: cars and motorcycles racing past pedestrians with no intention to stop, beggars looking for change, children in the streets helping their family sell fabrics or cheap trinkets on the street, and of course the tourists with their large backpacks and sun-kissed cheeks. But taking a closer look, you can hear the laughter and lively clamor of a community that is strung together by the mosaic lifestyle of a lakeside village. Feeling the unforgiving wind blow in from the north, I attempt to let the reality of my arrival sink in as I watch a young boy earnestly catching blue gill using only string and hook, his father proud that his son will bring home fish for dinner.

Lake Atitlan holds economic, social, sentimental, and even spiritual importance for many Guatemalans, especially the major Mayan ethnic groups inhabiting lakeside villages. These rural communities rely on the lake for drinking water, bathing, recreation, textiles and fisheries. In 2008, 2009, and 2011, thick green cyanobacterial blooms coated 40% of the lake’s 137 km²surface area, visible from NASA satellites. Understandably, following these visually stunning blooms, the local communities panicked, fearing the lake was sick. In April 2010, a group of international and local scientists and organizations came together to conduct a snapshot assessment of the lake’s status and to capacity build an integrated framework for ongoing monitoring. Although the 350 meter deep lake remains healthy, the eutrophication process has accelerated in the last few years; measures must be taken to reduce the nutrient loading, otherwise the lake may become irreversibly altered.

Fishermen stay near one of Atitlan’s inflows due to its highly productive runoff and hotspot for warm water fish. (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)

I am here to tell the story of the fishermen of Lake Atitlan. Within this story lie the foundations for monitoring of the Lake Atitlan fishery and to improve the ability to monitor potential toxins produced in the cyanobacterial blooms. Local fishermen hold the most knowledge about fish, fish community composition and food web changes over time; their day-to-day work keeps them embedded in the lake’s ecology. I intend survey development to be a dynamic process in which to engage local fishing communities and extend an avenue for their voices in local conservation efforts.

My first day in Panajachel was spent on a small boat, with Guatemalan student, Hugo Villavicencio, and two local harpoon fishermen, Felipe and Pablo. Without time to unpack or get to know my homestay family, I began exploring the daily life of an Atitlan fisherman. An overwhelming tactic at best, but it allowed me to achieve an idea of what the next three months entailed. Having spent the last three years learning Spanish in Costa Rica and the United States I thought I would be ready to conduct these interviews. I was sorely mistaken. Although they were excited to show me their techniques and spend the day fishing with an American visitor, my goals are much more comprehensive than merely taking photos of these men. It is my intention that this project help create a voice for the fishermen of Atitlan, but if their words are lost in translation, I cannot achieve these goals. First stop, El Jardin de America Spanish school for a two-week intensive study of biological and fisheries related vocabulary! During this time I will continue to integrate myself into the Maya community and gain trust among the locals to create a truthful portrayal of the Atitlan fishing communities.

Felipe, the president of the harpoon fishermen in Panajachel, attempts to search for more fish after catching his first fish of the day, a female large-mouth bass, which he was sad to kill hoping the females will lay thier eggs in the coming months and provide more fish for the struggling fishery. (Photo by Sarah Calhoun)