Between the years 950 and 1200 A.D. massive migrations of Nahuatl speaking people reached the western shores of the Pacific coast of El Salvador. They inhabited the very jagged Balsamo mountain range. Photo by Fabio Esteban Amador.

It’s difficult to recognize and understand the meaning of ancient texts, words, symbols and the messages they contain.  This is not only due to the very complexity of systems of communication, but mostly because we often don’t see them. During the holidays, I had the opportunity to go to the field with Marlon Escamilla, a Salvadoran archaeologist and Ph.D. candidate from Vanderbilt University, who’s thesis focuses on the archaeology of the people who inhabited the Balsamo Mountain Range in coastal western El Salvador. While Escamilla focuses mostly on the Pre-Columbian structures that were built on the very ridges of the jagged mountain tops, the valleys and small canyons may hold clues to the very nature of the people who once lived in this region.

Can You Find the Symbols on the Rock Surface?

Ancient writing systems vary from simple ideographs to complex iconography.  Finding these symbols requires looking at rocks as canvases used by time travelers.  I consider them time travelers, because although the artists have been dead for centuries if not thousands of years, their messages remain on the rock surface.  A second level of complexity is understanding the meaning of these fragmented “texts”, and this is limited by the information we have on the culture that created them.  In many cases there is a historical break, the loss of a language or the vanishing of a people and their traditions, which limits us from knowing. We are certain, however, that people dedicated time, effort and energy in developing symbols that conveyed their thoughts and experiences on earth, these symbols on the rocks are signposts to their world.

FE: why do you think people decided to live on such high mountain ridges?

Marlon: Perhaps one of the reasons is related with a defensive necessity, they were looking for places that allowed them to have visual control of the landscape. But at the same time, maybe these ancient groups decided to live on this particular landscape because there was a symbolic implication as well, one that allowed them to practice their rituals on the top of the mountains.

Citizen Science – Collaborating to our Knowledge.

During our visit to one particular site in a canyon, we had the opportunity to take photos with a Gigapan Epic Pro robot, which allowed us to create large stitched images, zoom in and out and explore the rock face without loosing  detail.  See if you can discover the many symbols on the rock surface.

You have probably been able to discover various symbols.  Archaeologists use systematic recording methods in order to make sense of what is left of this human record.  The site where the images were found is quite large and it took three stitched panels to capture the entire surface.  You have also probably noted that the symbols have been painted in Red, White and Pink.  This was not our doing, but rather some visitor who thought that painting them would make them more visible, but the fact is that the best way to preserve this fragile record is “not to touch it”.  Perhaps you can make a list of all the symbols visible on the rock.  If you do, point to their location and then use a simple tracing/drawing program to copy image.  Leave comments below and I will follow up with the names of the contributors in a future blog.

FE: Is there a connection between the rock art found on the canyons and valleys of the mountain range?

Marlon: I think yes. Although we cannot read the petroglyphs, at least at this moment, there is a carved figure depicting Tlaloc (principal rain god), one of the main deities of the Nahua-Pipil groups during the Postclassic period (850 – 1524 AD). During this period, the Nahua-Pipil groups were living on the mountain ridges and Tlaloc veneration was a very common ritual, usually practiced at hilltop places and next to rivers or lagoons, and the rock art site is located just next to a narrow river.

We all have different ways of seeing and that’s why we feel that this method of collaboration is a powerful one.  We are interested in creating knowledge for all the citizens of the world.  This is humanity’s past, this is their experience, this is their art.  This is our heritage.  It may be possible to discover something new, make sense of things.  I believe in the notion that we create our own identity, and so, your contribution will go directly into the reconstruction of history and cultural identity for this region in Central America.

FE: How will your understanding of these ancient inhabitants increase our notions of the past?

Marlon: The development of archaeological research in the area will allow understanding about the daily life practices and ancient rituals, how the Nahua-Pipil lived, communicated and understood their world. Also, we can learn about the use and appropriation of space, landscape and other sources. Archaeology is a science that allows us to travel back in time, opening a wide window in order to learn about ancient ways of life and understand the complexity of human behavior.

Salvadoran archaeologist, Marlon Escamilla, uses the Epic Pro Gigapan robot to capture complex imagery at the Balsamo mountain range in coastal western El Salvador.. Photo by Fabio Esteban Amador.

FE: What is the future of Archaeology for El Salvador?

Marlon: I see a very positive future. El Salvador is such a rich country in cultural resources located in both contexts, terrestrial and underwater. In the recent past,  archaeology was only practiced by a few foreign archaeologists; nowadays we have an academic program in archaeology at the Universidad Tecnológica (Technological University), and every year the number of students is increasing.  At the same time some Salvadoran archaeologists are obtaining higher degrees. Still, there are a lot of things to do, however the archaeology of El Salvador is on the right track, the idea is to develop more archaeological research involving Salvadorans and foreign archaeologist in order to build a solid interpretation about the past. El Salvador is an archaeological treasure where you can explore different cultures, different  periods and also you can practice underwater archaeology on Pacific Coast and volcanic lagoons.

Your participation in identifying the symbols on the rock surface and their location will be a great contribution to our understanding to El Salvador’s history and cultural identity. fe

I had the opportunity to chat with  Markus Tellkamp, James Callaghan, Ricardo Pasos and George Bey from Millsaps’ Kaxil Kiuic Biocultural Reserve in the Yucatan Peninsula and asked a few questions about how they have been so successful in creating a unique setting for research, education and conservation.

Fe: What do we know of the jaguar?

Ricardo Pasos: Actually, we know surprisingly little about the jaguar, and unfortunately much of what we know is not encouraging for the future of this big cat.  We know it is the third largest of the felines worldwide and the largest in the Americas.  We know its range has declined dramatically, though it still stretches from northern Mexico to Argentina.  The Yucatan Peninsula has Mexico´s largest population of jaguars, but even here our knowledge is limited to a few studies at reserves around the periphery.  We believe Puuc Jaguar Conservation is the first to examine populations in the heart of the Peninsula, and to supplement biology with an investigation of attitudes toward the jaguar in the small Maya communities of Yucatan State´s Puuc Hill region to help us enlist local support for protection measures.

MarkusTellkamp: Formerly considered a being of supernatural powers, jaguars are now even reviled and driven to near extirpation from the Yucatan peninsula. Even though jaguars are on the informational brochures of most eco-tourism outfits and conservationist foundations, very little is known about the habitat needs and movement patterns of this furtive species, especially in the human-dominated landscapes of the interior of the peninsula. Here in the seasonally deciduous tropical dry forests the jaguar still roams the hills and valleys of what is known as the Puuc region.

Fe: What is the Kaxil Kiuic Conservation Project?

Markus Tellkamp: At the Kaxil Kiuic Biocultural Reserve (KKBR), operated by the Mexican non-governmental organization Kaxil Kiuic A.C. and owned by Millsaps College of Jackson, Mississippi for more than 10 years, jaguars still find enough forest cover to subsist, or maybe thrive. Embedded within the southern portion of the state of Yucatan, the 1,800 hectare (4,400 acre) large KKBR is now part of the newly created Puuc Biocultural State Reserve that aims to protect more than 150,000 hectares. (The state reserve is aprox 135,000 hectares or 333,000 acres. However, its area of influence or buffer is closer to 150,000 hectares.) Trail cameras have provided us with evidence that jaguars live in this formerly neglected area. A picture of a female even suggests the possibility that jaguars breed in this area. Furthermore, this last largely forested region of the state of Yucatan may be an important corridor for the large-scale movement of jaguars important to the long-term survival of this species in southern Mexico.

Fe: Given  the growing human population and expanding settlement in the region, how will the project deal with frequent interactions?

Markus Tellkamp: Puuc Jaguar Conservation will begin with a mark-recapture study using trail cameras to document the population status of the local jaguar population. This biological study will be complimented with a ethnozoological study to ascertain the role that jaguars play in modern Maya societies of the region. As part of this component, Puuc Jaguar Conservation will provide conflict mitigation advice and education to local ranchers and campesinos (farmers) who may suffer losses of livestock to wild animals such as the jaguar. We suspect most losses, incidentally, are currently due to feral dogs, not jaguars or puma.

KKBR has a strategic position within the Puuc Biocultural State Reserve, occupying a bottleneck that is surrounded by the agricultural frontier carved into the forested landscape by the communities of Xul and Yaxachén. On a larger scale the state reserve is a long swath of forest that provides a conduit for jaguars and other large mammals from the Puuc all the way to the Petenes region of the peninsular northwest. KKBR thus is not only a reserve within a reserve, but a corridor within a corridor and ultimately a model for conservation in the Puuc and Chenes regions.

James Callaghan: It is very pleasing to see that after more than a decade of work our private reserve is not only an open air classroom for a number of national and international school groups, but that it has become the living laboratory for interdisciplinary bio-cultural research which we first envisioned. It is also exciting to think that our research project will contribute to a significant body of knowledge about the jaguar developed by Pronatura Peninsula Yucatan, Biocenosis, El Eden and Amigos de Sian Kaan and UNAM in other parts of the peninsula. It now becomes possible to develop strategic alliances to combine talents and resources towards the development of a pan-peninsular jaguar monitoring program. To do so would provide us with the information necessary to guide our future conservation policies and management practices on landscape and ecosystemic dimensions.

The jaguar conservation project is just part of the many programs that have been spearheaded by Millsaps’ Kaxil Kiuic Biocultural Reserve. Other ongoing programs and accomplishments include research and conservation of the archaeological zone of Kiuic, monitoring of fauna and the registry of new bird species, studies that are trying to correlate regional climate, deforestation and population dynamics of many species. This is a remarkable and exemplary undertaking. Please visit the Kaxil Kiuic Website for more information on the many educational and conservation programs.

Fe: What is the History of the Archaeology at Kiuic?

George Bey: The site of Kiuic is considered one of the classic Puuc centers and has been known to the wider world since Stephens and Catherwood’s publication of Incidents of Travel in Yucatan (Volume 2). The explorers visited the site during their 1840-41 travels and it forms a lively bit of adventure in their book. During their visit to Kiuic they stayed at the Casa Real of the local Maya cacique. The Maya landowner made a strong impression on the explorers, as it was the first time they met a Maya of such self-confidence and wealth. They could see in the owner of Rancho Kiuic the descendants of the great lords of the ancient cities they had been visiting throughout the region. Amazingly, the ruins of the Casa Real are still visible today and are strikingly similar to the drawing of them done by Catherwood during their visit.

The site was visited in 1881 by the Austrian born photographer and adventurer Teobert Maler who took a set of important photographs of Kiuic providing not only images which could be compared to those of Catherwood but also a record of the state of many of Kiuic’s important buildings at this early time. Perhaps the most famous event of this visit was to discover and draw the remains of the House of the Diamonds, a badly damaged vaulted building noted for its beautiful, restrained façade composed of half-columns interposed with large stone diamonds. During the exploration of the House of the Diamonds they recovered and then lost a painted hieroglyphic capstone whose whereabouts are still unknown today.

Photographer and Adventurer Teobert Maler visits House of the Diamonds in 1881

Significant archaeological work at Kiuic, including detailed mapping and extensive excavation did not begin at Kiuic until 2000 with the advent of the Bolonchen Regional Archaeological Project and the creation of the Kaxil Kiuic biocultural reserve. Present work at the site indicates it was first occupied around 900 B.C. and continued to develop as a Puuc center until sometime in the 10th century when it was abruptly abandoned. The Puuc architecture at the site is recognized for its elegance and restraint, with the extensive use of colonettes. Early architecture at the site predating A.D. 800 displays the use of high quality modeled stucco decoration equaling that found at other northern lowland sites such as Ek Balam. The archaeology in the region has been lead more recently by an amazing group of scholars including George Bey, William Ringle and Tomas Gallareta Negron.  Their work has  advanced our knowledge and understanding of these ancient settlements in the Yucatan Peninsula.

Please visit the Kaxil Kiuic and KKBR Websites for more information.

I arrived at the BLUE Ocean Film Festival this past week in Monterey, California to find a lineup of amazing machines, the future of ocean exploration was on display.  The submersibles included the Waitt Institute’s Dual DeepWorker Submersible by Nuytco.  This state of the art machine is capable of diving up to 600 meters (~2,000 feet) and offers the opportunity to include an array of sensors, cameras, lights and it has a pilot controlled arm for manipulating objects and conducting experiments.  I had a chance to get a full understanding of this ocean spacecraft by Waitt Institute’s Executive Director, Dominique Rissolo, and pilot, Joe Lepore.

This amazing submersible has been piloted by National Geographic Explorer in Residence, Sylvia Earle, who has led more than 60 expeditions and logged more than 6,000 hours underwater. Dr. Earle also led the first team of woman aquanauts during the Tektite Project in 1970 and set a world record for solo diving in a Nuytco suit.  More recently, she conducted an assessment of the Gulf of Mexico after the catastrophic spill.  It is precisely this type of work that the submersible offers.  It can be deployed anywhere around the world with a small crew and put to work conducting surveys and video/photo documentation. The beautiful thing is that it allows a scientist to go on board and make direct observations through its large glass canopy that is equivalent to front row seats to the best show in the ocean.

Another impressive submersible was OceanGate’s Antipodes, a submersible with a five-person capacity allowing a real opportunity to conduct educational and collaborative expeditions.  Antipodes provides its crew with a spectacular view of the ocean with a diving capability of 300 meters (~1000 feet). Its two 58 inch hemispherical acrylic domes provide a front row seat to the best views the deep has to offer.  I had the opportunity to chat with one of their pilots, Erika Bergman, a talented young woman with a great future and a great message (see video).

DeepFlight was also present with the Super Falcon.  This high performance deep submersible is the brainchild of Graham Hawkes, who created this fifth generation submersible capable of reaching depths of 300 meters (~1,000 feet). It’s designed with wings and two in-line seats with 360 degree views of the ocean.  It looks like a jet fighter but it is meant to dive with state of the art fly-by-wire technology.  A work of art and a terrific ocean explorer. At the conference, it was common to see explorers and creators working together, as I found National Geographic Explorer Bob Ballard chatting with Graham Hawkes. How often do you see these pioneers together?

Last but not least on the Deep BLUE submersible alley is Virgin Oceanic’s DeepFlight Challenger.  This magnificent submersible was originally commissioned by Steve Fossett who’s intention was to complete the first solo dive to the Mariana Trench.  This is indeed the only ocean space-craft to be able to go down to a depth of 37,000 feet and stay unaided for up to 24 hours.  Sir Richard who owns the ship hopes to use this vehicle to explore the wonders that lay untouched and unseen at the bottom of the ocean.

The Deep BLUE Ocean Festival was an extraordinary event, lots of films, people and ideas.  But beyond the display of incredible submersibles, it was the energy of the teams, the pilots and institutions that were there  as educators and were thrilled to display their machines and explain their capabilities to everyday folks and special guests such as Edward James Olmos, the Prince of Monaco, Fabian and Celine Cousteau,  Jackson Browne and many others who are concerned about the health of the ocean and involved in real initiatives to protect it.

Jackson Browne checks out Antipodes at BLUE. Photo by Fabio Esteban Amador

Given recent budget cuts to NOAA’s National Undersea Research Program (which supported the legendary Aquarius lab and the Pisces subs), the future of ocean exploration is now more than ever in the hands of creative and inspired individuals and organizations funded by the private sector.  Similar to our new quest for outer space, the next step in ocean exploration is in our hands. We have a great future ahead, and best of all, we get to discover our own world.

I recently had the opportunity to interview explorer and NGS/Waitt grantee Michael Lombardi, following a successful deployment of a newly designed underwater portable habitat. Habitats have been used since the 60′s as inner space stations to conduct experiments and evaluate human behavior and physiology while spending long stays underwater.  These first habitats, however, were rigid permanent structures that required heavy building materials and lots of funding.  Just a few weeks ago there was a rumor that the last permanent habitat run by NOAA was shutting down, the end of the era of Aquarius.

So, where do we go from here?  How do we continue our quest to learn about the ocean and form a bond so that we can live in the largest expanse on earth?  Recently, Michael Lombardi was awarded an NGS/Waitt grant to test a new concept in underwater portable habitats that could potentially save lives, allow discovery of new species at deep sites, and provide divers with communication, rest and safety.  Furthermore, his invention is light, portable, and could open the doors to a new era of exploration.  I sat with Michael and asked a few questions:

 What is a habitat and what is it used for?

An underwater habitat is a physical structure to help people live and work beneath the sea. The best known habitats came to be during the 1960’s and 1970’s during what might be described as our ‘inner space race’. Several programs were underway, with the principle objective of establishing a permanent human presence on the seafloor. These took place in the private sector, in academia, amongst the exploration community, and by government agencies. The rise and fall of this era is extremely well described in Ben Hellwarth’s recent book entitled, ‘Sealab: America’s Forgotten Quest to Live and Work on the Ocean Floor’. Very recently, NOAA’s Aquarius Habitat, the only remaining permanent habitat from this early work suffered a major federal budget cut, and is being closed. This represents the end of an era; where large, costly, immobile habitats for science will take the backseat to a next wave of improved techniques for human exploration and intervention of the seafloor.

CGI conceptual schematic of the habitat prior to construction. The final system was built to accommodate two divers comfortably, though it can accommodate three in an emergency. Graphic by Anthony Appleyard.

Recent advances in diving technology, particularly closed circuit rebreathers – devices that recirculate the divers breathing gas – afford a myriad of benefits that allow for extended depth and duration forays on the seafloor. It is feasible to carry out single dives in excess of four to six hours, covering a vast expanse of ocean floor for scientific purposes. These types of excursions lead us to question the value of permanent habitats for science.

What benefits exist in this type of structure and how can it enable science and exploration?

Today, the paradigm in the marine sciences is to spend up to several weeks in the field per year, investigating broad geographical areas for any number of scientific disciplines. The field researcher needs to be mobile, must work efficiently on tight budgets, but must also have access to some region of ocean space that provides a competitive edge. My group’s work has focused on improving techniques for exploring Mesophotic coral ecosystems, or MCEs (www.mesophotic.org). This region of ocean space, from 200 to 500 fsw depth, is an international science priority, though remains largely inaccessible. While exploring these depths is feasible using the aforementioned rebreather systems, the limits of human physiology are quickly reached, and only relatively short deep excursions (the work phase of the dive) are possible. A bulk of the dive is dedicated to decompression, or allowing absorbed gasses to be released from our body’s tissues at a slow rate.

The experimental inflatable habitat is anchored at the fore reef in 70 fsw and is affixed to a bridle allowing the system to sit at about 30fsw. The boat can be seen silhouetted at the surface. Photo by M. Lombardi.

In our quest to dive deeper and longer, the need to revisit habitat technology presented itself, however in a different form.

The habitat we developed in cooperation with Subsalve serves a different purpose than the conventional permanent habitat, though is no less effective and exciting. Long decompression in the water means being cold, tired, dehydrated, and exposed. There is limited control over the immediate environmental exposure.

The cave community has used habitats for quite some time, principally to provide respite from these factors to the divers after long cave excursions. The systems are portable and are filled with gas to stick to the roof of the cave to stay put. This provides a very basic ‘bubble’ for the divers to rest in. (picture the old demonstration of placing an inverted glass in a sink full of water). These are not nearly as luxurious as the permanent habitats, however are incredibly effective in providing respite for several hours during decompression – allowing for longer forays at depth.

Going into this project, where we sought to deploy a habitat in openwater, we researched portable habitats extensively. Very limited efforts have been made previously, and those that had were still focused on permanence at depth rather than providing temporary respite during decompression. In openwater, such as on a deep coral reef, maintaining portability and ease of deployment during a short field excursion was the biggest challenge. Our system was very modular, in fact we traveled with the entire package as an extra piece of luggage!

Once deployed, we made a couple of dives and made short stays in the habitat to test diver ingress/egress, and assess the feasibility of spending very long decompression times in the habitat in the future. I believe this to be an industry first – that is using a rapid deployment portable inflatable habitat to augment deep decompression dives in openwater. This opens HUGE doors for science, as we can forseably conduct dives in excess of 500fsw on deep coral reefs with limited infrastructure, low cost, and maintain a level of productivity that justifies continued program investment. In 2010, we discovered a new fish species (Derilissus lombardii, Sparks & Gruber 2012) during a haphazard collection at depth in just a few short minutes. Extending dives at these depths to several hours will allow scientists to ask bigger questions in this alien environment, and considerably broaden our knowledge of these unexplored ocean habitats.

The portable habitat is constructed of fabric embedded vinyl and reinforced with nylon straps. Three window line the perimeter to provide a view of the outside. A bridle fixes the extremely buoyant habitat to the anchor point at the reef crest. Photo by M. Lombardi.

Is the future dependent upon our ability to cope with challenges and how do we move forward?

During a recent conference, one of my peers bluntly inquired ‘is it worth it?’ in reference to our proposing to use this habitat. My argument is, and has always been, that if we don’t look, we won’t find anything. The process of exploration is one of constant inquisition – this is deeply embedded in human nature. Looking into the future and dreaming is a start, but it truly takes action oriented people and projects to make marked demonstrations of our true capacity. More often than not, we (explorers) fail, though these failures guide continued evolutions to find success. It is an absolute must to look ahead, take bold steps, and chase dreams to make them a reality. While our habitat is a very, very small effort in the grand scheme of the ocean sciences, I believe that it marked a critical challenge that was met successfully and will have profound implications. The future of human exploration of the ocean requires technology to get that increased depth and duration. If this type of technology affords us routine access to unique environments, this may very well renew public interest and excitement in ocean exploration. That excitement is so very important today, as our relationship with the Blue Planet is severely strained.

Diver Jeff Godfrey sits inside the habitat. Bench seats are affixed to a simple frame on the inside perimeter of the structure. Photo by M. Lombardi.

Was the NGS/Waitt Grant fundamental in launching your idea?

In my experience, pursuing funds to support any project via conventional sources (i.e. NSF, NIH, NOAA, etc) is incredibly difficult given the current economic climate. This is particularly true for projects and programs that are far-reaching, well outside of the ‘norm’, and are high risk/high reward. Most exploration programs fit this outlying area – even in healthy economic times. The manner in which NGS/Waitt provides quick turnaround reviews and is able to support high risk projects that fit critical industry timelines or trends, is an absolutely necessary vehicle to enable true exploration in the field, and further catalyze the innovative and intellectual processes that follow.

In many cases, these types of projects would live on only as ideas on the long lists of very brilliant people without the financial boost that NGS/Waitt provides. The program stands alone, even within the NGS grants programs, in representing the true spirit of exploration, cutting edge science, and enabling resulting discoveries. These pursuits are essential to take any idea off of the list and make it a reality.

I can say for certain that my work has benefited tremendously from the NGS/Waitt program. In my case, not being a ‘researcher’ per se, rather an operations and program development person, the grants received have provided the necessary leverage to really begin to build a sustainable exploration enterprise around my work.

Michael Lombardi’s pit stop: rest, safety, deco and relaxation. by M. Lombardi

What do explorers dream about!

For me anyway, I dream about a day when I can leave the beach and spend a day, a week, or even a month underwater. Being in a new place for the first time is a priceless, breathtaking, and humbling experience. I stare out into a new frontier and see endless possibilities. The dream is to take us all there, one small step at a time.

Relevant links:

Michael’s NGS bio page: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/explorers/bios/michael-lombardi/

Previous Newswatch article: http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2011/04/12/journey-into-inner-space-conquering-the-abyss/

Lombardi’s Blog: http://anewlifeinthesea.blogspot.com

Lombardi’s page: http://www.oceanopportunity.com/BahamaDeep.html

NG Weekend Radio Interview: http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2012/08/10/ocean-space-habitat-a-new-concept-is-born/

When I think of luminosity I think of the brightness of the sun or associate it with technology, light bulbs, light emitting diodes, and of course, the energy sources that make it possible. In many ways, creating light has promoted the “nightlife” or our ability to see, signal, and interact in darkness.  Just a trip to Times Square in NYC can provide us with all the latest and greatest ways to project ideas and propaganda.  There’s no doubt that “artificial light” has profound functional, economic, and scientific applications, and even social meaning, but how do other creatures produce light and particularly why has it evolved in the ocean?  What are they signaling and what can we learn from the meaning of their essence?

 To be or not To be Luminous

Recently I had the pleasure and privilege to visit a new exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City.  The exhibit is called “Creatures of Light” and it features organisms that produce their own biofluorescence and bioluminescence.  I was given a tour of the exhibit by David Gruber and John Sparks, both National Geographic Society / Waitt Foundation Grant recipients.  David Gruber has been contributing with the development of the coral wall as part of an NSF Communicating Science to Public Audiences grant, and John Sparks is the curator of the exhibit.  The subject is fascinating but there’s still many questions surrounding this ability to glow.  I caught up with David Gruber and John Sparks at the New York exhibit for clarification on some questions regarding their fascinating research.

Q: What is the difference between bioluminescence and biofluorescence?

 Q: How does bioluminescence evolve in organisms?

A: Love and war seem to be the most compelling reasons for many of the creatures that developed these glowing properties. Of course, there are other reasons such as a cell expelling light to burn off potentially dangerous excess energy, or an anglerfish luring its meal with an hypnotic glowing bait. But, we’re mostly familiar with luminescence used for predator deterrence and mating attraction. For example, the cookiecutter shark (Isistius brasiliensis), a small but vicious species that bites off cookie-sized plugs of flesh from its prey – tuna, dolphins, whales and other sharks. Its belly is covered tiny lights (photophores), except for a small region, that serves as a kind of optical illusion to make this shark appear much smaller to predators swimming underneath, when they attack what appears to be a tiny fish, they get a surprise – a bite taken out of them. Also, there is a polychaete worm called Odontosyllis phosphorea. Right after a full moon, the females ascend from the bottom and secrete a green luminescent slime along with their gametes. This signal attracts the males who, in turn, spill their gametes into the billowing green luminescent cloud.  While ascending from a night dive in the Bahamas I once witnessed this Disco-like mating ritual. While creatures have evolved varied and sophisticated methods to take advantage of luminescence the primary components are two molecules, luciferin and luciferase, bioluminescence’s fuel and sparkplug. Some organisms make their own luciferin, many get it from their diet, and some even form partnerships (symbioses) with bioluminescent bacteria.  Interestingly, the functions we observe today in many groups (e.g., fireflies, ponyfishes) are quite different from what these creatures originally used bioluminescence for.

Q: Where in the Ocean can we find these creatures that glow?

A: Most people usually think of fireflies and jellyfishes when they hear the term bioluminescence, so the perception is that luminescence is a rare occurrence. However, it’s almost everywhere in the ocean as well as more common on land than most people think. Humans have evolved as daytime creatures –our ancestors waking at dawn and sleeping at night for millennia. Conversely, creatures that inhabit the permanently dark depths of the oceans find bioluminescence essential for their survival and communication. When diving at night, when you turn off the lights, its often an underwater lightshow, the ocean’s Las Vegas.

Back at the Creatures of Light Exhibit

I walked into a soothing dark space filled with music, a dreamy melody composed by Tom Phillips specially for the exhibit.  I felt as if I was in a dream and was curious to touch, see, learn and explore the many interactive stations, cool displays, and dimly lit spaces glowing with bioluminescence.  I had flashbacks of being a kid and running around the backyard among the many fireflies.  I began to ponder how does one get interested in this world and what sort of knowledge and equipment are necessary to capture their essence.  David Gruber and John Sparks kindly illuminated my curiosity.

Q: Tell us about the technology that you are creating to capture images of bioluminescence.

A: One of the challenging aspects of capturing bioluminescence is that you cannot use any artificial lighting, and you need to rely solely on the light being produced by the animal. One forgets how incredibly sensitive the dark-adapted eye is and few cameras can achieve that level of sensitivity. But, low-light imaging technology has been revolutionized in the past few years and there are several wildly sensitive science-grade cameras. But, they are big and bulky, and not in color. Working with Prof. Vincent Pieribone, a neuroscientist at The John B. Pierce Lab at Yale University, we are working to transform these lab-based cameras into colorized underwater imaging systems. During our Waitt Expedition in June, we will finally put some of these cutting edge imaging technologies into use.

Q: What’s so cool about studying these creatures?

A: It sure beats a typical desk job. We are constantly looking for clues to explain what the glowing or fluorescent properties of each creature are used for or how these phenomena have evolved. Then there is the challenging process of finding, filming and collecting these creatures. This requires exploration that has taken us to unfamiliar places. We are in the ocean diving for at least two months of the year –and much of the diving is done at night, without the aid of lights. This can be unnerving, to say the least when we occasionally catch a glimpse of a large shark in our lights.

 Beyond the beauty of this dream-like scenario, there must also be some novel applications to understanding a bit more of this new research frontier.  According to Gruber and Sparks “Scientists are now using bioluminescent compounds from marine animals to help track and destroy cancer cells. Cancer cells are notorious for hiding out among healthy cells before they start replicating uncontrollably.  Yet, using luminescent compounds, these hidden cancer cells are easily detected and this can help scientists find cancer-fighting drugs that can effectively target them. In brain research, biofluorescent compounds from corals and jellyfishes are enabling the real-time visualization of neurons firing which is being used in medical research as well as in brain-machine interfacing technology”. In fact, the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 2008 went to a team of scientists responsible for discovering and developing the green fluorescent protein, GFP.  This discovery has allowed the visualization of processes that were previously invisible, such as the development of nerve cells in the brain or how cancer cells spread.  There’s no doubt that the future applications that stem from this research are bound to have profound effects on humans.

Creatures of Light is a unique exhibit for its focus on the different examples of bioluminescence; from fireflies to glowworms, jellyfish, anglerfish to fluorescent corals.  It is also sophisticated in how it has combined ipads, music, low light, an information that can be fascinating for a five year old or a seasoned scholar.  Personally, I found the entire experience very soothing, I guess because the lights were low, it seemed to be a very relaxing atmosphere and the faint glow that was visible, was organic, natural and alive.  I wonder if perhaps the evolution and ability of these creatures to have developed such complex yet simple life ways are due to the tranquility of their dark world.  Is light associated with stress, darkness with tranquility?  I can think of examples where the opposite could be argued to be true.  Perhaps we as humans should think about exploring the night and develop an ability of seeing in darkness. We may discover the inner glow of life.

 About the Explorers

Dr. David Gruber is a marine biologist who uses extended-range SCUBA and Remote Operated Vehicle technologies to explore the deeper portion of the world’s coral reefs. His research focuses on photosynthesis and biofluorescence and his research team has discovered over 30 novel fluorescent proteins, including the brightest one found to date. He is currently funded by the National Science Foundation to design and engineer a submersible specifically to study bioluminescence and biofluorescence of deep coral reefs. David is committed to communicating science to the general public. His writings have appeared in The New Yorker and The Best American Science Writing and he is the co-author of “Aglow in the Dark: The Revolutionary Science of Biofluorescence” (Harvard University Press, 2006), which he is currently co-producing into a 3-D IMAX film in conjunction with the National Film Board of Canada. David received his PhD in Biological Oceanography in 2007 from Rutgers Institute of Marine and Coastal Sciences. He is a Research Associate in Invertebrate Zoology at AMNH and Assistant Professor of Biology and Environmental Science at Baruch College, City University of New York

Dr. John Sparks is Curator-in-Charge in the Department of Ichthyology at the American Museum of Natural History. He travels the world in search of bioluminescent and biofluorescent organisms, primarily marine fishes. His research is focused on reconstructing the evolution of the bacteria-driven bioluminescent signaling system in ponyfishes—small, laterally compressed fishes that occur in the Indian Ocean and Western Pacific that have light organs surrounding their throats. He is also investigating the evolution of hearing in fishes, the origin and biogeography of Madagascar’s freshwater fishes, and the evolution of bioluminescence across marine fishes. Dr. Sparks’ recent fieldwork includes biotic surveys and inventories of both freshwater and nearshore marine fishes in Madagascar, the Indo-Pacific region, South America, the Caribbean, and the Western Atlantic. He is also a professor in the Richard Gilder Graduate School at the Museum and an adjunct professor in the Department of EEEB at Columbia University. Dr. Sparks received a M. Sc. in biology from the University of Michigan in 1997 and a Ph.D. in ecology and evolutionary biology from the University of Michigan in 2001. He joined the Museum in 2002.

I was so anxious the get in the water, but I knew that I must first demonstrate proficiency in the skills necessary to pass the course and most importantly, the stay alive and enjoy this wonderful world.

We decided that the best course for us was the one offered by National Association for Cave Diving Certification. Their philosophy is based on quality training, safe techniques and respect for the underwater environment. The NACD is also an advocate for diving with a partner, which is ideal for any emergency situation.  This also allows the team to know each other’s strengths, habits, and configuration.  Ideally, your dive buddy carries a perfect duplicate of your gear and in case of failure. There’s no questioning of who has what, where it may be, or most importantly, what to do!  The reaction should be identical for both.  To some extent, redundancy ensures safety and eliminates risk.    We were lucky with this since Dominique and I now have identical cavern equipment and we are taking the course together.

Our cavern course was taught by Alex Alvarez, who is a Mexican explorer and operator of Acuatic Tulum and has been diving and living in Tulum for over 20 years.  His experience in cave diving, knowledge of the cenotes in the region, and his training as a cave dive instructor for NACD, not to mention his great personality and friendship, were simply perfect for us.  The cave course takes a few days to go through and it includes classes on the NACD philosophy, knowledge of the underwater environment, types of formations, and overall history of their evolution.  The techniques specific for cavern exploration are taught and tested through field exercises.  Once you got this down, you follow with open water drills and a minimum of four cavern dives where you put to work what you have learned.   That’s when you begin to wonder, why am I doing this…

Laying Down the Line

Every exploratory dive into a cenote involves laying a line.  The purpose of this line is simple: it allows you to track where you have been, sort of like setting a route for climbers, and is just as important.  So, there are procedures associated with laying the line, how you tie it off, where and when to make tie-offs, and most importantly, in case of emergency, this will be your lifeline.  Yes, you will follow it back to safety.  So as you can see, it is important how and where it is placed.  Now, imagine running out of air or some type of failure that limits your air and you are 20 meters (60 feet) down, and 60 meters (200 feet) away from the entrance of the cenote and under an overhead environment, with very limited light.  Let’s make it even more spicy: imagine you panic for a second and your fins kick up silt that had been sitting on the bottom of the cenote.  Now you’re in trouble, you are out of air and you can’t see a thing. What do I do?

There are countless Cenotes in the Yucatan Peninsula. Aktun Ha is one of them. Photo by Fabio Esteban Amador

First of all forget about dropping your weights or inflating your buoyancy compensator, this will only pin you on the ceiling of the cave.   Forget about ripping the regulator off your buddies face, or simply losing your cool.  What I appreciate about cavern training is that is takes your mind off of these end-of-your-life scenarios and simply tells you to react as you have been taught.  First of all, provide your buddy with your primary regulator and take your backup primary, which is nicely hanging below your chin.  Second, don’t panic. You are breathing air and this is all you need to survive.  OK, now I have to get out.  NACD training enables you to safely position yourself and the person with whom you are sharing air, to be in contact with each other, and to be on the line together.  Yes, this simple, inexpensive string now becomes your road to safety.  So, my last day with Alex we laid the line, we went towards the end of cavern zone, and then he turned towards me and used the signal for “out of air”!  Oh yeah, it’s a special feeling and I’m happy to say that it went well.  As we buddy breathed and made our way out following the line, he gave the zero visibility sign.  Oh man, then I was blind and out of air.  Something strange happened at this point in my training.  Closing my eyes became a dose of tranquility that I never expected. I was breathing fine, I had my hand on the line and I could feel my buddy’s grip.  We were ok.  Although in complete darkness, and in a precarious situation, I knew that we were going to be OK, and we made it out OK.  This training is vital to your survival.

Given our intention of exploring cenotes in order to document archaeological and paleontological sites, it was vital that our training began with the proper dive training.  The training that Alex gave us was an essential part of our initiation into this wonderful underworld.  It taught us much about the cavern environment and its safe exploration within the specified limits.  The course was also very particular in making sure that dive planning, emergency procedures, preferred propulsion techniques, and perfect buoyancy were practiced over and over and should continue to be part of every future dive.

Skills learned in the cavern certification course are practiced every dive. Photo by Henry Watkins from Fisheye Photo

Planning the Dive

Planning is critical before every dive in the cavern environment.  Different than setting objectives, it actually delineates maximum guidelines that include; A. Sequence or the order of the team.  This is essential since every member of the team has a particular task in either laying the line, providing lighting for tie-offs, checking equipment, etc.  B.  Air or determining the maximum air to be used during the dive.  Now, this brings me to a point that is an imperative to cave and cavern divers – The Rule of Thirds.  This means that your immersion into a cave will be limited by the amount of remaining air.  So you divide your air into thirds, say for example, you start your dive with 3,000 psi, then 1,000 psi would be “the third,” and the first person to consume this amount will have to call the dive.  This is one of the most important safety measures since it allows you to return to the starting point with 2/3rds of your total air.  Some deaths have occurred when divers use up most of their air on their way in and then get lost on the way back or it takes longer and they run out of air.  This risk is completely eliminated by using the rule of thirds.  C.  Depth and Duration.  These last two are also essential in the pre-dive plan and are governed by the very definitions of the “cavern zone”.  The Cavern Zone is an area where the sun is your primary source of light. Although this “light” differs from cenote to cenote, the idea is that there should always be a direct line of sight to the light that enters the underwater environment.  Once you no longer can see this light, then you have entered the cave.  Nevertheless, there have to be standard measurements to prevent accidents and therefore a maximum depth of 20 meters (60 feet) and a maximum horizontal distance of 60 meters (200 feet) from the entrance should be observed, no exceptions.  This is brilliant because it eliminates the need for decompression and multiple dives are possible in one day.  And since air consumption is intimately tied to your depth, then your max depth, distance and time are the limits to be observed.

There's nothing better than having a great instructor. Photo by Local Diver.

Any Person Can Call the Dive at any Time and for Any Reason

This phase of my training was exciting, it is on the very edge of what I have been comfortable with in my life and in diving.  In many ways is testing my capacity to be in control of myself in different situations and this is something very positive.  I say this because in extreme or dangerous situations there are reactions that could either give you a fighting chance or pull you down.  In my case, I have been fighting my own demons for a while: anxiety, fear of the unknown, diabetes, etc.  Down in the cavern I have had those demons come up and I have had moments of panic, but this training has given me a different perspective.  One that life is wonderful, and that I’m doing this because I want to live and not because I’m looking for ways to die.  I’m stronger yet humble, in terms of my capabilities and limitations, and respectful of the cenotes.  Many friends have said, that’s the most dangerous sport in the world!  Well, I could think of many other crazy sports that are dangerous, but in this situation, you are in control of the situation, and understanding this allows you to perceive the beauty that once was fear of the unknown.  I am grateful for this experience and to my buddy Dominique and my instructor Alex, who never pushed, and always believed in me. Cavern diving is not for everyone, but what I have discovered here below the surface is more liberating and enlightening than anything I have ever known.  I’m flying down there, it’s beautiful, it’s fragile, it’s amazingly complex.

Part 3 of the Cavern Diving blog will focus on cenote explorers who live in Tulum, stay tuned…

Diving the Cavern Zone – part 1

People and Cenotes

The Yucatan Peninsula is a world-class cave diving destination due to countless labyrinths of underground tunnels that characterize this region. In fact, three of the largest underwater cave systems in the world have are located here and have been mapped by an incredible community of elite divers, dedicated to the exploration, conservation and protection of these fragile sanctuaries. The tunnel systems are accessed through sinkholes on the jungle floor locally known as cenotes. Cenote is a Spanish word derived from the Maya dzonot – a word meaning sacred pool or flooded cave. These geological features formed from the dissolution of limestone over thousands of years. Rain fell and mixed with carbon dioxide creating carbonic acid that slowly percolated the porous limestone creating entrances to underground tunnels that had been carved by the flow of underground rivers and sea level changes throughout millennia.

Cenotes have been extant for thousands of years and the first Americans or Paleo-Indians used these entrances as shelter and to access water more than 10,000 years ago. This has been confirmed by the numerous discoveries of megafauna and early human remains such as the National Geographic Expeditions Council’s Hoyo Negro project, currently being investigated by a multidisciplinary team and lead by Pilar Luna, Director of Underwater Research for the Mexican Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH Subacuatica). Later in time, the Maya believed that these cenotes were portholes to the underworld or house of the gods, even their origin myth is intertwined with these sacred entrances to the caves. Cenotes are important today as a source of freshwater as they were for the Maya and Paleo-Indian peoples. And their exploration, study, conservation and protection is a priority to the present populations who depend on this precious resource.

Why cavern diving?
My interest in cenotes has grown recently due to several factors: The impact that tourism is having on these delicate spaces, their conservation, and their study as shelters for early human occupation, specifically Paleo-Indian populations and houses of worship for the ancient Maya culture. Although tourists often visit them, it takes special training to become a certified cavern diver, which brings me to the goal of this blog: to relate my experience while going through cavern training, to visually document the present state of the caverns and to profile the amazing community of divers that have dedicated much of their lives to exploring the endless tunnels, caves and caverns that define cenotes as a whole.

The First Step: Cavern Training

Literally taking the plunge into darkness. Cavern certification is not for everyone. Cenotes are inherently marvelous, dark, wet and pose dangers to the sport diver. I never thought I would make it here, it took a while to plan and to get support for this new stage in my career. It all started as an interest to go beyond the waterline that I share with a great friend and colleague, Dominique Rissolo. It’s been our dream to have the opportunity to explore a new and fascinating watery world, and this March the dream was meant to happen. As archaeologists we have conducted surveys over valleys, mountains, flat lands, estuaries, hills, beaches and city centers. It is not that we have run out of interests on the surface, but rather that we have discovered that what lies beyond the waterline, was exposed for thousands of years to natural forces and people. There are lifetimes of exploration and amazing discoveries that may contribute to our understanding of our place on earth. We spent time researching the subject and discovered that there are specific tools, equipment, and most importantly, people who have the knowledge, expertise and personality to teach.

Equipment

Cavern diving configuration is quite different from recreational open water equipment. For this we went to our friends at Zero Gravity, in Xpu Ha, where owner and cave diver Fred Devos spent an entire day configuring our system to be optimized for cavern diving. Unlike traditional buoyancy compensator vests, our Halcyon Infinity system uses a simple harness in front and places a wing attached to a back plate. This is an extremely important change that allows one to be completely horizontal while diving and eliminates any dangling hoses. Everything is neatly tucked eliminating the chance of getting snagged or entangled while diving. Another important change is your primary second stage. It is a hose that wraps around your neck, if you need to supply a person with air, you give this regulator, which is two meters long. Backup second stage is neatly hanging from your neck, which you can easily reach for in an emergency. Although your wing is your buoyancy, your main control are your lungs which allow you to ascend or descend by letting air in and out of your lungs. Your backplate is your main weight, but additional pouches can be placed on your belt. You never want to drop your weight since you could get pinned to the cavern ceiling. A fatal mistake. The cavern is dark so you need lights. Your primary light is held with your left hand and a secondary (and third) hang from D-rings on your chest. All neatly tucked away. As you can see, the equipment is specialized and perhaps somewhat expensive, but the questions is: how much are you willing to pay for equipment that could save your life? A bottom timer, watch, and depth gauge are all you need. Your task is to keep it all under control at all times. Fins, low volume mask, safety spool with line, directional markers, wetnotes and a pencil. The rest is mostly personal preference.

Ok, now that we got our gear is time to get training.  part 2 coming soon…

“What’s so striking about tropical montane cloud forests, especially with respect to the forest canopy, is how many species still remain to be discovered. As a scientist, it’s this sense of discovery that motivates much of my work.” said Greg Goldsmith.

The amazing strangler fig tree begins it’s life in the clouds. It slowly grows downward, over the host tree, depriving it from light and moisture. These trees are extremely tall and make up much of the canopy in Monteverde’s cloud forest. Although it is known for taking the life of the host, it serves as the foundation for hundreds of animal and plant species that make their home up in the clouds. (photo by Fabio Esteban Amador).

Tropical montane cloud forests are one of the world’s rarest ecosystems. Consider that about 23% of the planet is covered by land. Of that land, about 12% of it is covered by tropical forests. Of those tropical forests, about 22% occur in the mountains. Of those tropical mountains, about 12% are constantly covered in a thick layer of clouds. At the end of the day, tropical montane cloud forests probably only cover about 0.14% of the planet’s land surface! But beyond their rarity, what’s so important about tropical montane cloud forests?

“Canopy in the Clouds is a chance to share the natural history of one of the most amazing ecosystems I have ever visited and the excitement and adventure of performing scientific fieldwork with students around the world.” Drew Fulton told NG news.

These unique and fragile ecosystems are home to an incredible number of animals and plants, many of which are found nowhere else on the planet. For example, in an area roughly equivalent to Central Park in New York City, Montverde has more than 700 tree species (about the same number of native tree species in the entire United States). Monteverde’s inhabitants include renowned birds such as the Resplendent Quetzal and Three-Wattled Bellbird, rare frogs such as the Bare-Hearted Glass Frog, and elusive animals such as the Baird’s Tapir. These species are currently at risk of disappearing due to minute changes in temperature and precipitation that may greatly alter the balance of life in the clouds.  Without a doubt, the cause of this imbalance is global climate change, and its effects could literally push life off the mountain peaks.

“The impressive nature of the cloud forest took a while to sinc in for me; it is hard to dial up the excitement level when hundreds of scientific plant names are being tossed around! However, the task of translating the coolness of this place to a wider audience became an awesome drive behind making fun, dynamic images.” Colin Witherill said in an interview.

Survey in the forest is quite difficult. In fact, it has taken Eladio Cruz, center in photograph, 40 years to learn all of the species of trees in Monteverde’s cloud forest. Other team members helping Greg conduct survey include Sergio Vargas, Cristian Mena and Francis Joyce. (photo by Fabio Esteban Amador)

National Geographic grantees Greg Goldsmith (YEG CRE, NGS/Waitt, forest ecologist), Drew Fulton (YEG EC, photographer and professional climber) and Colin Witherill (cinematographer) are building a research and education program in the cloud forests of Monteverde, Costa Rica. Their project is called Canopy in the Clouds. It seeks to educate the public about the importance of ecology and conservation by raising awareness of the beauty and fragility of the forest using media from the cloud forest canopy.  Greg, Drew and Colin‘s goal is visionary, their enthusiasm is exemplary, their laughter is contagious and their aim is sincere, “we must inspire people to take an interest in these beautiful, hidden corners of the planet, before it’s too late”.

For more information please visit Canopy in the Clouds and  Monteverde through Costa Rica’s Tropical Science Center.

What weighs less than 50 pounds, is aerodynamic and leaves no carbon footprint?  Velomobiles. Over 50 of them (recumbent human powered vehicles) have crossed the U.S coast to coast, from Portland, Oregon to Washington DC at an average of 125 miles per day.  The riders or velonauts as they call themselves are part of the first transcontinental velo tour across America (ROAM).  The participants come from Europe, Canada and the U.S. and what separates them from the rest is that they are riding in state of the art human powered vehicles.

The ROAM team captain is Josef Janning, a velonaut himself who’s devoted much of his life to promoting alternative commuting methods, healthy lifestyles and creating bike-friendly communities. “We are passionate bikers, bike commuters, and have experienced the many benefits of cycling for health, the environment and the family budget. That‘s why this tour is a pledge for bike-friendly communities, be it in cities or out in the country” commented Josef.

Velomobiles are not entirely a new concept, in fact, they have been around since the early 20^th century.   By the early 1900’s there were various concepts of three and four wheeled “velo-cars”.  This early beginning did not have such a great future as the bicycle, however, in the 1970’s there was a revival of the velomobile as a safe, efficient, reliable and zero impact vehicle. A new era in human powered vehicles began.   Velomobiles are clearly a good alternative to commuting in gas powered vehicles.

Recent use of light and strong materials such as kevlar, carbon fiber and aluminum have allowed for the construction of extremely light, durable and aerodynamic fairings which cover the recumbent.  These fairings allow riders to commute in all weather by providing fully or partially enclosed cabins, great visibility, maneuverability (steering and breaking) and safety.   The new line up of velomobiles is more formula one-like designs that incorporate navigation systems, easy operation, lights, low maintenance, aerodynamic superiority, and most important of all, no gasoline or mechanic bills.    So, who’s riding the new velomobiles, athletes?

“We are ‘normal’ people from all walks of life that simply like to bike. It’s amazing what humans can achieve with some regular exercise”, says Janning, a long-time bike commuter himself.

Josef’s dream to cross America with a large group of velonauts has come true.  The tour has taken them through 15 states, starting in Portland Oregon on July 28^th and arriving at Washington DC on August 24^th 2011.  The Tour was supported US and European companies such as DHL, Schwalbe and Clif,  who’s commitment to reducing the CO2 footprint made them solid partners from the beginning.

ROAM sends an important message to people around world: we must start using bicycles as a means of transportation.  Not only will this practice improve our health but will also have benefits to cities that will discover the power of bike-friendly communities.

Congressman Earl Blumenauer (D-OR), founder and co-chair of the bipartisan Bike Caucus in the US Congress and an avid cyclist himself, has called ROAM 2011, “An exciting tour that will showcase the benefits and practicalities of velomobiles for long-distance travel as it brings national visibility to the health, fuel-efficient, and environmental value of human-powered vehicles. Whether you’re on two wheels or three, headed to the neighborhood store or across the country, human-powered vehicles — in their many forms — are the most efficient means of transport ever devised.“

The ride-to-work movement just got stronger…join now!

Update:  The 50 velonauts and their incredible machines are arriving this afternoon (Wednesday 24th of August).  If you’re in DC, come greet them at the Capital Cresent Trail entrance in Georgetown. Follow Josef’s tweet for arrival updates